Monthly Archives: October 2010

Spring in Berlin

Memories 2003/2004 Berlin, Germany:

“Watery golden sunlight, the staccato clack of Herr Zug awaken me, struggling up through vivid dreams already late with the rising of the sun, I pull on clothes willy-nilly. Racing down the corridor, through the station, barely making the train I need, I catch my breath only to have it taken again: a handsome young student quietly defiant in military black and a ponytail, an arm’s length away warms me with the intensity of his gaze. I imagine our hearts begin to beat in time, that he must see even the hole in the toe of my left sock so long he looks at me.

“You see something you like”, I ask finally, laughing in mild exasperation and pleasure after several interesting minutes ride of mutual review.

“Yes,” he replied simply with a small smile, his eyes never leaving mine. And even I, I the one surprised by nothing, blush beneath his glance, surprised. Returning his books to his rucksack, refastening his ponytail all the while watching me, he stands and I am presented with the profile of yet another fit muscular German derriere clad in black fatigues.

Standing at the door, he looks back to me. “Want to go for a coffee?” Thrilled yet trying to remain cool, “Sure,” I say. We step off together. After a conversation that begins somewhat stilted, we conclude laughing. We make plans to meet later that night.

What a wonderful beginning to a day!

Glittery sun, sudden gloom, a spattering of rain then sleet, pattern having been repeated a dozen times during the day. Standing in a breezeway waiting for the worst of it to pass I lean against cold graffitied concrete listening to the shrill laughing voices of children happily crunching the beads like glass underfoot. A Sigmund Freud look-alike shares my haven for a moment blinking up at the sky through round spectacles. Lost in Kreuzburg, looking for work, it’s taken all of my day yet nothing to show for it. I’ll find my way home soon, tomorrow I am confident Berlin will bow before me.

Evening rush, hurrying through the tunnels for no particular reason except the crowd presses close behind me driving me onward, I fight against them a moment, and they part like water around a river stone, as I toss an euro at the guitar player whose music fills the air, his voice lifted in Russian song. That’s how I know I’ve reached the right station. He’s there every day without fail at Nollendorfplatz. The doors close with the computerized voice calmly announcing in German, “Caution, doors closing!” I sink down on molded plastic, sigh at the aching in my feet. Most of the day has been wasted for me but I have enough money for a few beers tonight. I sit rocking next to an Asian woman delicately biting at a small sandwich barely seen above the wrapper. My mouth waters but I tell myself I am not hungry. I still have some beef jerky left at the room anyway.

The door is opened to my knock, its someone I don’t know recently moved into the eight steel bunk bed room, but that doesn’t matter. Almost everyone has the same dream that’s come to this special room at Meininger 12 hostel: room 007, dubbed “the room of dreams to be”. Dreams of success in their field, of making the grade, of finding a job. Each and every one of my friends are dear to me now: Nikko, the jolly giant from Münster come to make pastries; Isabella, an awesome young opera singer come auditioning; Rachel, a petite Australian beauty who wandered in from Amsterdam; and Robin, my first and dearest, a young Swiss student with a love of jazz.

We all sit around the lone scarred table counting out our last monies, most of us are near the end of our stay, reluctant to go home, to leave each other, to give up on our dreams for this trip but we still smile and make the best of it. We bring together what foods we have left and share until each is filled. I contribute my beef jerky, a great new favorite of Robin’s. He offers fresh bread we all exclaim in delight. Some granola bars from Rachel, beer from Nikko, and dried fruit from Isabella. A great feast.

A new friend awakes on the bottom bunk of Rachel’s roost, groggy and jet-lagged, groaning at the light, his accent is Australian. A great surprise and pleasure for Rachel, they are even from the same city, Melbourne. He is friendly as the day is long and immediately pulled into our group. Robin and I vow to show him the wonders of Berlin, and help him get acclimated. He’s in Europe for the first time, a journeyman engineer come to work at Siemens.

“Now, we go?” Kunal asked, but we only laugh. Its around eighteen hundred hours, far too early to go out. Go back to sleep, we advise him, it’s what we are going to do. Last night’s wandering around Wedding with a return at four a.m. begged for necessary napping.

Not long after midnight I am shaken awake by a smiling face, Robin, in faulty endearing English whispers so as not to awake the others who’ve chosen to pass on this night’s adventure, “Come, come to meet friends!” Prodded, pressed, and persuaded, shaken, stirred and baited I stumble into my best, snatch up Kunal, and out the door we go.

Walking down a dimly lit side street, parameter tape still flutters in the night breeze, marking the steps of the synagogue, its sole guardian identified only by the red ember of his cigarette burning in the shadows. Not until the door opens at the next corner do I know we’ve reached the place.

Wading through bodies thrashing to the heavy beat, sliding onto shabbily chic sofas where slim hot bodies make room in a casual way, one can’t hear a thing above the chest smashing pulse of the music but a soft kiss of welcome eases the tension from the persons closest, the first beer blurs the lines. I lean back in muzzy delight. Its Robin’s favorite place, Cafe Cinema, its dark walls covered with photos of famous stars, its high ceiling swimming in haze.

“What’s your thing?” a smiling guy whom I’ve never seen before, sporting a red spiked Mohawk yells in my ear leaning across from a wobbly chair. I can barely hear him. He can barely keep his eyes open.

“Poetry,” I shout back at him, “just poetry!” I push him back into his chair for he’s almost fallen into my lap.
“Cool,” he mouths as he falls asleep sitting upright, “Cool, cool, cool….”
“He works at the embassy,” my friend tells me lighting another cig. “He’s their head chef!” We laugh uproariously.

After a half-dozen rounds of dark German beer which he generously provided in good Aussie style though we tried to decline or at least return the favor, Kunal expostulates loud enough to turn heads, “Oh my God! It’s supposed to be spring!” Across the tall front windows a sudden fierce snowfall blows sideways, in its grasp, dim figures with heads ducked struggle to and fro, one group cavorting in protest as a night bus pulls away. Better head in for the night, we decide, for the Aussie Auslander has work in the morning unlike my Robin and I. Lucky devil he, we both have to come back and try again for a place in Berlin after returning home to work and get more blunt.

Wading out into the swirling squall, Kunal still exclaims in amazement beneath his breath shaking his dark curls in wonder. The rhythm still in his head, the beer curling warm in his belly, Robin dances in the station, his face angelic as we beg him to stop for he’s too close to the edge of the tracks. He pirouettes away with glee lifting his Frank Sinatra style hat politely to an elderly couple, stalwart in wool and tweeds standing stolidly shoulder to shoulder waiting, as are we, for the next train.”

The Dancing Robin by Red Haircrow

The Dancing Robin by Red Haircrow

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Memories of a Romanian self-proclaimed Guru: Berlin 2003

Zentrum fur spirituelle Entwicklung

Zentrum für spirituelle Entwicklung

For a university course I took earlier this year, I had to select a leader and determine their driving force. Although it was obviously suggestive of choosing a well-known or current leader, when I really stopped to think about the question there was no one I wanted to write about except a man whose name I’ve now forgotten. I wished to select this man because it was someone I didn’t know previously, have never seen again nor probably ever will, and have only marginally heard mentioned since yet he had a large gathering at the time.

This man was a Romanian spiritual leader who’d traveled to western Europe to spread his philosophies and draw more people to his cause, which was obscure to me, besides what seemed a wish to have followers, acolytes, disciplies. He had trained with Buddhist monks and Hindi gurus, as well as a number of Christian leaders in his pursuit of enlightenment.

On this particular evening, the day before Christmas Eve, which is the celebrated holiday in Germany, not necessarily Christmas Day, I was invited by a roommate to visit her yoga house where this Romanian wandering spiritual leader would be reading what he termed “The Lost Letters of Christ”, letters supposedly written by Jesus Christ but which hadn’t been included in the Christian’s bible. It was never made clear how he came to receive these “letters”.

This was a man perhaps in his late twenties at best, long-haired and bearded, with a curious look in his eye, distant yet focused. I immediately felt he was under the influence of some narcotic or mind-altering drug. And looking around the room, I was certainly the odd man out.

I do not practice yoga, I am very much anti-religion and Christianity although I have studied it, along with Hinduism, Buddhism and a number of other religions. I am conversative in emotional expression except among a very small group of friends perhaps because I’m a former law enforcement officer. In many ways, I could have been the perfect disbeliever and heretic, yet there was something about him…. Already settled on his cushion in a dias on the far wall, his followers all around and visitors like myself, total quiet settled. He looked at each person in turn several minutes, myself included, then began to read.

Having read the bible a number of times, I can see where the contents, stories and references mentioned in the letters might have been considered true. They were somewhat sensationalized, yet people hung on his every word.

He exuded a confidence which was undeniable and arousing. It was truly uncanny. Following his reading, and at the request of a number of others there began sexual games of exploration where everyone who wished could engage: male, females, everyone together, or individually or as couples. As open-minded as I am, this wasn’t something I wished to participate in at that time and eventually withdrew, so I don’t know what the eventual outcome was. Though I confess…(I have to smile) I do have photos far beyond the single I posted here.

My point is using this “nameless” Romanian spiritual leader for my essay question was to highlight the strange nature of this person’s charisma and power. I am very much unmoved in many things, yet I could feel the attraction of wishing to have his attention, to do what he requested, to wish to gain his approval, and could clearly see it in his followers, and saw it grow in the visitors, including my roommate who, afterwards, with shining eyes said he was the most brilliant man she’d ever known, which I found very curious as she wasn’t just a twenty-something with limited experience but a sixty year old woman.

I could see clearly in this man that he loved the power, was intoxicated by it, you could see it in his smile and actions. In that, he very much reminded me of some of the most disgusting condescension and vice I’ve observed in some leaders and members of Christendom.

Achievement was a brutal goal you could also perceive in his gaze. He’d achieved what he wished: a following, and was fueling it’s growth. Affliation was less a need, for he’d studied with masters, yet struck his own path combining what he wished and discarding what he didn’t need. Power was his primary goal.

Beware. Be wary.

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The People: The Power of the Pow-wow (Photos)

Drum Contest by Red Haircrow

Drum Contest by Red Haircrow

There’s always a sense of anticipation for me but also one of coming home. Of having been elsewhere and existing, but this is the real world: a Pow-wow, wherever it happens to be. I feel a sense of purpose and relief seeing so many of the People together. I see the faces of my relatives and ancestors now gone in the faces all around me whether I know them personally or not.

There’s Uncle George, and Bunch and Locket, Uncle Kenny and Randy and the most beloved and dearly missed, the great grandmother we all called Big Mama, which we now call my own mother. (The story of her passing can be found here, Big Mama’s Pears: A Memory.)Though long passed I see their faces around me. I feel their spirits. Just beyond the corner of my eye I see all the spirits of the people who’ve ever lived and died breathing and moving, just like our own: glances turned inward towards the circle we all surround.

Osage elder MC by Red Haircrow

Osage elder MC by Red Haircrow

The drummers gather around their sacred drums, clear and massage their throats, test a few beats here and there. We all hold ourselves motionless yet quiver with excitement. Then it begins, and with a wordless cry we release our energy as our hearts pound fiercely with the rhythm of the drum.

We’ve come with friends today. Hell, we always come with friends and be among others even if we don’t personally know them. My people are Chiricahua Apache and Cherokee, my companions are Lakota from Rosebud rez, living in Hot Springs, South Dakota, another is also Chiricahua but mixed too with Blackfeet and Eastern Cherokee. Most of us are older, or as in my case struggling with our health, but we walk the long dry walk from the car park resting a few times along the way, but it’s a short walk really. Infinitely less than the deadly march some of ancestors were forced to walk.

Dance Contestants by Red Haircrow

Dance Contestants by Red Haircrow

This is a larger well-known pow-wow for this area in Tennessee, the 29th annual one held at Long Hunter State Park. Perhaps it’s officially part of Nashville this state park but it must be out in the wilderness section near the many laked portions. My point is it gets a lot of visitors who are non-Native. As we’re walking up there’s a new American grandmother with her small grandsons.

One points at my mother as exclaims, “Look Granny, there’s an Indian!” “Yes”, she replies, “that’s a real Indian!” My mother laughs. My son is somewhat indignant and says one of his favorite phrases, “That’s racist.” I reply in the negative.

“Well, it’s stupid, anyway!” Next favorite statement. I reply in the negative again. We make a few more steps.

“They should know better!” my son finally concludes.

“Then teach them,” I finish.

Usually we rather randomly find a spot to set up our chairs, or if we have a canopy, but since my friend’s father is visiting, a Lakota elder, we follow him. He looks aimless and we wonder why he keeps moving on, but he settles in an excellent spot after all and still the doubting questions on our tongues.

At that time of the day, around one p.m., the sun is glaring in a cloudless skies. To my eyes edges are too hard and defined. It makes my throat feel overly dry. I’m tired already but I don’t want to sit down. My son doesn’t want to for another reason. Along with Mizz Suzy, my friend’s seventeen year old niece whom my son thinks is prettiest most petite thing he’s ever seen, they want to go shopping at the many booths offering goods of all kinds related to or made by natives. “As long as you bring me back something to drink, run off,” I allow.

Grand entry begins and it’s respectful to stand the whole time although it takes often several minutes. Doesn’t matter if my heart burst, I’d keep standing until I fell. You just have to be tolerant, you have to be what you are, which is not easy to be offended, or quick to anger when people take photos when they’ve been asked not to, or talk loudly on cellphones about their class schedule for next week during a very special healing song, or their children say how bored they are over and over again, LOUDLY.

A fancy shawl dancer

Fancy Shawl Dancer by Red Haircrow

None of that matters, and in the end it’s ok anyway. At half past two and onto three most of the non-Native crowds have already drifted off or the ones left behind have been to pow-wows before. They are respectful, cheerful and quiet for the most part. They are enjoying what we are though perhaps for a different reason.

Grass Dance is my favorite. I love the story behind it, the movements of the dancer, and I wrote about it before in my entry: “Writing is a Grass Dance, Welcome to my Pow-wow”, if you’d like to read it follow the link beneath.

Healing Song by Red Haircrow

Healing Song by Red Haircrow

But it’s the Jingle Dress Dance that chokes me up. For those who don’t know, it is a special day as close to holy (in the modern sense of the word) that I can feel. Each woman’s regalia has 365 bells on them, depending on their level and ability, one for each day of the year. A prayer for each day. A prayer for each of us. They dance for us and they offer up the prayers. It is sacred. In times of healing, times of birth, or struggle or death, this is the dance that comes back to me. I am a Two Spirit. I am in between. When my cousin went into labour three months too early my mother sent me onto the hospital for then I could move faster than she. I danced this dance in her room while the nurses looked at me askance but my cousin relaxed. Her feisty little girl child calmed down a bit and waited to be born a few days more. She lived.

Jingle Dress Dancers by Red Haircrow

Jingle Dress Dancers by Red Haircrow

The Jingle Dress is our prayer. This year there was a special one danced and drummed as an elder had cancer. As many as possible stood around the drum and the dancers….there’s no way to explain it really. You have to feel it. We of us all know the steps, the movements. We’d seen them dance earlier in the day a few times, but this time it was more fierce, frenetic yet infinitely focused and controlled. The light jumping of the bells as they moved sparkled and winked, made brighter by the force of emotion and strength of the sun. There were few dry eyes among the People when it was finished.

Beautiful Jingle Dress Dancer by Red Haircrow

Beautiful Jingle Dress Dancer by Red Haircrow

My eyes are filled with tears even now. All the ones who’ve gone before, who are passing over….But you don’t stop dancing or like me, you can only dance in your mind but it is an intense feeling, a driving need. Your chest just expands and expands, and in my case, you have to give a cry. It’s instinct. It’s nature. It simply is. That’s the way of it.

It’s rounding toward four p.m., and the light has softened. The reddening and golden leaves glow with the gentling sun’s rays. The stands are quieter, less movement all around. The sense of the gathering grows more intimate for it’s primarily natives now. The dance contests continue and there’s a “drum off” in the works to break the tie to see who’s the best drum, and I’ve totally forgotten I am suppose to be at work in about an hour. An hour. It’s a two hour drive minimum from where we are in Tennessee back to our home and my client’s location, yet I’m still reluctant to leave. Torn between the fact I forgot my cell and could have called and cancelled and that would have had to eat take-away food, (I am a full time private chef), and the reality there is no choice but to start the journey homeward…I begin my good-byes to my friends. My mother begins to question me. I hold up a hand. When I move away simply move with me, I listening now. She quiets.

Wheeling Birds by Red Haircrow

Wheeling Birds by Red Haircrow

The birds are wheeling in the heavens above us as a new song begins, a Fancy Shawl dance. I keep my gaze upward to the deepening blue sky but still flashing below are their bright colours. I close my eyes then and everything still blazes behind my eyelids. I can feel the vibration of the earth beneath my feet, the heat of those standing close by, hear even beneath the sound of the music and voices the steady breathing of the People. It’s all of a piece, of a necessary piece and part of my life. When I open my eyes the world seems to tilt and things are brighter and sharp-edged again. Back to the outside world. My steps move away. Wordless my mother follows, then my son.

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